From: alg@cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel) Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing,rec.org.sca,news.answers Subject: Historical Costuming FAQ Summary: Lists of sources for patterns and supplies for historical costuming. Bibliography of relevant books. Info relevant to SCA periods (600 AD to 1600 AD) and Civil War. Some pointers to Historical Reenactment groups. Keywords: FAQ, historical costuming, sewing, textiles, books, patterns, sources Message-ID: <1992Oct14.161740.4245@cs.cornell.edu> Date: 14 Oct 92 16:17:40 GMT Expires: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 05:00:00 GMT Sender: alg@cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel) Reply-To: alg@cs.cornell.edu Followup-To: rec.crafts.textiles Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853 Lines: 779 Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu Supersedes: <1992Aug28.202419.27600@cs.cornell.edu> Archive-name: crafts-historical-costuming Last-modified: 13 Oct 1992 The following is the second of three lists of Frequently Asked Questions for the alt.sewing and rec.crafts.textiles groups. I plan to use the same FAQs for both newsgroups as long as most of the questions remain pertinent to both groups. Like most of us, I don't know all the answers, I've just collected the wisdom of the net. Many of these answers have been culled for postings over the last year or so. Many regular posters have contributed to this list through their postings and e-mail. Any additions or comments are appreciated and can be mailed to me. -Anne Louise Gockel Cornell Computer Science Internet: alg@cs.cornell.edu UUCP: cornell!alg --------------------------------------------------------------- The first list concentrates on general sewing questions and supply information and restoring antique sewing machines. The second list concentrates on costuming and historical clothing. The third posting contains a list of books that cover sewing, fitting and pattern drafting. Some of these answers are fairly lengthy so I have used "ctrl-L" between the different questions in this FAQ. Note: within the "rn" news reader you can use: g 1) at the "More --##%--" prompt to go directly to question 1). Questions addressed: 1) Where is a good source of costuming information? 2) Are there any sources of historical costuming patterns supplies? 3) What about period fabrics? 4) What about Civil War era stuff? 5) How about information on Seminole War re-enactments and frontier costuming? 6) Acknowlegements. 7) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ? Significant changes since posting of 8/28/92: Vintage Fashions magazine no longer published 1) Where is a good source of costuming information? A good source for costuming information is the SCA, Society of Creative Anachronism. The avowed purpose of the SCA is the study and recreation of the European Middle Ages, its crafts, sciences, arts, traditions, literature, etc. The SCA "period" is defined to be 600 AD to 1600 AD, concentrating on the Western European High Middle Ages. Some members extend the period from 450A.D. to about 1650 A.D. More or less officially the purpose of the SCA is "The study and re-creation of the Middle Ages and Renaissance, not as they were, but as they should have been". Most members of the SCA make and wear period costumes. Furthermore, most Kingdoms have active costumers guilds. The SCA also host collegia (classes) on all aspects of the historical period, including costume. You can find SCA members in the newsgroup rec.org.sca. If you post there, be sure to mention your city and state so that those who respond can suggest local SCA groups and sources.publications specifically on costuming (aka "garb"). If you wish to contact the SCA national headquarters you can write to: The Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. Office of the Registry P.O. Box 360743 Milpitas, CA 95036-0743 Publications of the Society from the national office include "The Knowne Worlde Handboke" and "The Complete Anachronist". The Handboke is a general information book about all aspects of the Society's activities. It has a few sections on costume, and has some patterns drawn on a graph paper grid that can be blown up. The Anachronist is a bi-monthly series of pamphlets on a single subject each. The national newsletter, Tournaments Illuminated, has occasional ariticles on specific aspects of costume. Note: The third edition of The Knowne Worlde Handboke is available as of Aug 1992 for $10. There are two regular SCA postings, one posted by Wilson Heydt (whheydt@PacBell.COM) and the other written by Arval Benicoeur (joshua@paul.rutgers.edu or mittle@watson.ibm.com) and Siobhan Medhbh O'Roarke (smor@um.cc.umich.edu). (Can anyone provide pointers to other historical recreation groups?) Books: There are also a couple of books that you might find interesting. _Sewing and Collecting Vintage Fashions_ by Eileen MacIntosh: This should be available or orderable from your local sewing shop or bookstore. A good look at many aspects of Vintage clothing. Includes sections for sewers and timid sewers. Tries to cover both you want a certain look, what era might it be and you want a certain era, what sytles were in vogue. Also has a good chapter on "How accurate does this have to be?" There is also a good section in the back listing various resources, Groups, and references coded by period and what they supply. _The American Historical Supply Catalogue A Nineteenth-Century Sourcebook_ By Alan Wellikoff: I found this in a used bookstore, but it should still be in print. This covers a wide range of items. Not much on patterns, but if you are looking for items to round out a costume, it may be helpful. 2) Are there any sources of historical costuming patterns and supplies? Patterns and Supplies: Fall Creek Suttlery P.O. Box 530 Freedom, CA 95019 (408) 728-1888 - $2.00 catalog. Civil War era items and patterns. La Pelleterie P.O. Box 127 Highway 41 Arrow Rock, Missouri 65320 (816) 837-3261 - $5.00 catalog (as of 1/92). Coats and cloaks, pre 1840. NE Shutsa Traders P.O. Box 186 Haven, Kansas 67542 (316) 465-3359 - $1.50 catalog. Cal/Mex era and horsegear. JAS Townsend & Son P.O. Box 415 Pierceton, IN 46562 (800) 338-1665 - Hats, cloaks, clasps. Campell's Designs Box 400 Gratz, PA 17030-0400 - $3.00 catalog. ($4.50 in spring 1991?) Patterns from 1776-1945 Carolina Stitches in Time Box 10933 Winston-Salem, N.C. 27108 (919) 764-0790 - Period clothing patterns. Amazon Vinegar & Pickling Works 2218 E. 11th St. Davenport, IA 52803-3760 (319) 322-6800 (800) 798-7979 - orders ONLY and only from the US (319) 322-4003 - fax - $5.00 per catalog: a) general catalog b) historical patterns catalog c) shoes and footwear catalog (avail 6/92 or 7/92). This is "the mailing list to be on". Historical patterns selected from Folkwear, midiaeval Miscellanea, early western, victorian, hoop-gown era, Past Patterns, Attic Copies (1920's to 40's), Prairie Clothing, amish, kilts, ethnic and dance. Past Patterns P.O. Box 7587 Grand Rapids, Michigan 49510 (616) 245-9456 - $3.00 catalog. Good selection of early 20th century clothing. Mediaeval Miscellanea 6530 Spring Valley Drive Alexandria, VA 22312 (703) 354 7711; Hours 9 - 5 M-F - What else? Mediaeval patterns (think Robin Hood :-). Free 16-page catalog and a $2 44-page catalog (as of March 1992). Carefully researched patterns, extensive footnotes so one can understand the garment in it's contemporary context. Patterns are designed for period fit, not for contemporary undergarments. Many patterns require a corset; they have some period undergarment patterns (including a corset?). Very helpful over the phone. Patterns are multisize from 6/8 to 18/20. Men's patterns are multisize between 38 and 48; some go much larger or much smaller. [Several people have been happy with their service; at least one person has had problems getting merchandise or a refund. The problems may be due to a specific set of unfortunate circumstances concerning lost records and hopefully won't be repeated.] Folkwear The Taunton Press 63 South Main St, Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 - Only some of the original patterns have been reprinted, but Tauton is reprinting others regularly. Mostly Victorian and Early American patterns. G-Street Fabrics 11854 Rockville Pike Rockville, Md 20852 (301) 231-8998 Fair Winds Pattern Co. 819 N. June St. Hollywood, CA 90038. - Send $1 for small brouchure featuring six patterns. Very nice 1920's jazz dress, Princess Bride-style wedding gown, a couple of nice casual, day-wear 1920's dresses. One ho-hum 1940's dress. R.L.Shep. Box 668 Mendocino, CA 95460. - 1990-91 catalog has 1000 items. $2.50 cataog. Books, magazines and reprints. Books related to the costume and textile arts, including out of print and hard to find books. Shep has also reprinted a number of older clothing books, including a couple of books of patterns for Victorian and Edwardian clothing. Raiments 3345 East Miraloma Suite 134 Anaheim CA 92806 - Patterns from 1100-1950 representing 15 pattern companies. Catalog $5 (refundable with purchase). ** The Cabinet of Vintage Patterns ** 3522 Deerbrook ** Windsor Ontario N8R 2E9 ** - Canadian company featuring patterns from 1905 to 1930; reproductions of ** women's and children's clothing. Catalog $4. Some very nice 1910-20 tea ** dresses. This company has apparently moved or gone out of business. If anyone has an updated address,etc, for the company please send me mail. Mail to the address listed here has been returned as of 1/92. Old World Enterprises Dept 302 29036 Kepler Ct Cold Spring Minn 56320 - 19th century patterns. $2 for catalog. Their listing says they specialize in 19th century garments. Their patterns aren't copies of existing garments, though, but originals based on the prevailing styles at the time. They offer multiple graded patterns in female sizes 8-10-12-14 and male sizes 38-40-42. Catalog $2. Prairie Clothing Co 3732 Tanager Drive NE Cedar Rapids IA 52402 (319) 378-0125 - $1 catalog. Lots of "Little House on the Prairie"-style clothing. More or less current clothing styles adapted for a combination prairie/Edwardian feel without tons of sewing details. Remember When Collection 361 N. Ohio Salina, KS 67401 - Send SASE for brochure. "Romantic" clothing. Current designs adapted to a Victorian feel. Dave Uebele ( or ) has provided a fairly complete list of sources for 1850-1900 clothing and heavy materials construction. See his notes later in this article. Sterling Silks/Sterling Cloth Company 701 Cleveland Avenue Southwest Canton, Ohio 44702 (216) 456-0653 - They carry Folkwear, Prairie and Past Patterns, as well as silk fabric of all weights, silk threads (sewing and embroidery), beads, tools (lucets), and dyestuffs. Also some costume accessories and jewelry are sold through their catalog. Minnetonka Moccasin Co. is not a historical company, but they do offer a wide choice of styles, including some high boots. Their shoes are advertised in other clothing catalogues, and are nice. For patterns from the 30's and 40's, check thrift stores and estate sales. A comprehensive textile library may have books dedicated to individual designers. These books tend to be expensive, but the pictures are fantastic. Magazines: ** Vintage Fashions ** Hobby House Press Inc. ** 900 Frederick St. ** Cumberland, MD 21502 ** -- a bi-monthly magazine focusing on vintage apparel and instructions for ** their care and repair. One-year subscription $19.95, sample copy $2.95. No longer published as of April 1992. Books: Some of these books are out of print. Most of them should be in a good university library. Some of them will be in the public library: Alcega, Juan de. Tailor's Pattern Book 1589. (reprint) Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction c. 1660-1860; Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and their Construction c. 1860-1940. New York. Drama Book Publishers, 1972. Contains notes on construction techniques and fabrics. Very clear drawings show the inside of each garment. Bradfield, Nancy: Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730 - 1930. copyright 1968, 1981. George G. Harrap & Co, Ltd, London. Careful examiniation of 150-200 historical garments, showing general construction details and notes about trim, details, undergarments, supporting frames, etc. Some notes about inner construction and materials. Sketchbook style drawings with short notes. Brooke, Iris: "Medieval Theatre Costume: A Practical Guide to the Construction of Garments", New York, Theatre Arts Books, (1967). Brooke, Iris: "English Costume of the Early Middle Ages; The 10th to 13th Centuries", London, A&C Black LTD, (1936). Brooke, Iris: "English Costume of the Later Middle Ages; The 14th and 15th Centuries", London, A&C Black LTD, (1935). [Iris Brooke has written others with more of a theatrical bent, but these are the best ones for costumers who want to make *clothing*. However Linda Ream Fox (lrfox@silver.ucs.indiana.edu) says that Brooke's are not historically accurate, are poorly drawn and are often from secondary or tertiary sources. Fox recommends the books by Yarwood, Nunn and Payne instead.] Burnham, Dorothy. Cut My Cote. (diagrams of actual historical (and ethnic?) clothing in the Royal Ontario Museum. Diagrams are graphed and shown with metric dimensions.) Covey, Liz: The Costumer's Handbook. Prentice Hall 1980. A good basic source for the tecniques of theatrical cosumters. Fernald, Mary. "Costume Design and Making" Hartley, Dorothy "Medieval Costume & Life; A Review of Their Social Aspects Arranged under Various Classes and Workers with Instructions for Making Numerous Types of Dress", New York, C. Scribner's Sons, (1931). Hill, Margot Hamilton & Pater A. Buchnell. The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern & Cut from 1066-1930. Hillhouse, Marion and Evelyn A Mansfield: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making. Riverside Press 1948. Clear instructions on draping, with excellent drawings of bodice, skirt, sleeve, and neckline styles. Perfect for reproducing styles of the 1940's. Holkefer, Katherine Strand. Patterns for Theatrical Costumes. Edson, Doris & Lucy Barton. Period Patterns. Houston, Mary G. "Medieval Costumes in England and France, The 13th, 14th, and 15th Centuries," London, A&C Black, (1965,1939) 8 plates in color, 350 drawings in Black & white. Houston, Mary G. & Florence Hornblower. Medieval Costumes in England and France. Newton, Stella Mary "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince: A Study of the Years 1340-1365" WoodBridge: Boydell Press; Totowa, NJ: Rowman & Littlefield, (1980). Nunn, Joan, "Fashion in Costume, 1200-1980". 1984. bibliography. 256 pages. Good black and white line drawings. Owen-Crocker, Gale R. "Dress in Anglo Saxon England", Manchester Univ. Press (1986). Very detailed study of 5th-7th century English costume with photos of clothing from archaeological digs. Payne, Blanche : History of Costume from Ancient Egypt to 20th Century. c.1965. New York. Harper & Row. Includes patterns drawn to scale. Uses primary sources. Scott, Margaret "The 14th and 15th Centuries", London, Botsford (1986). Schnurnberger, Lynn Edelmann "Kings, Queens, Knights & Jesters: Making Medieval Costumes", New York: Harper & Row (1978). Cross-listed under the juvenile section, but was produced in association with the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Might be useful. Sronkova, Olga "Gothic Women's Fashion", Prague, Artia (1954) [Bohemian costuming] Waugh, Norah: From an article on sewing costumes in Threads #30: Waugh, Norah: "The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930" and "The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900" (Theatre Arts Books) Concise descriptions and drawings of men's gaments from 1600 to 1900. Includes scaled patterns that can be enlarged. Yarwood, Dorren "European Costume: 4000 years of fashion". 1975. 305 pages. Includes bibliography. Good black and whiet line drawings. One tactic for using scaled patterns to construct gaments is to choose a garment in a book, make a transparency of the pattern in the book, and go buy a pattern as similar as possible. Then project the transparency on the wall and use it to adjust the bought pattern to the style of the garment in the book. An anotated bibliography of pre-1650 costume sources (including books and periodicals) is available from: Puffs and Slashes c/o L. R. Fox P. O. Box 443 Bloomington, In 47402-0443 $2.50 per copy Dover has a Pictorial Archive catalog and a Needlework catalog. The Needlework catalog includes several books that discuss Renaissance embroidery. The Pictorial Archive catalog has a FEW books that cover costumes. Typically these are books that contain pictures of people in costume. There are few (none?) books with actual costumes drafted. Dover Publications 31 East 2nd St Mineola, NY 11501. The whole costumer's catalog is probably available from: GCFCG (Greater Columbia Fantasy Costumers guild). P.O. Box 194 Mt. Airy, Md 21771 Be sure to check the list of sources and references in the regular alt.sewing and rec.crafts.textiles FAQs. A number are appropriate for costuming. If you are interested in drafting patterns, please be sure to check out some of the books listed in the Textile Books FAQ. Books that are labelled [HIST-COST] may be particularly appropriate for historical costuming. 3) What about period fabrics? Ann Feeney (roslibrefrc@crf.cuis.edu) is maintaining a list of sources for fabrics appropriate for historical costuming. Write to Ann for the most current copy of her list. A slightly condensed version of Ann's list is included below: A number of people recommended various fabric chains. In particular some people mentioned Hancocks (particular in Portland, Oregon and Vancouver, WA). Others mentioned their favorite bargain stores that also sell many natural fabrics. The Pendleton Woollen Mills has an outlet in Nebraska City, Nebraska. They carry wools and occasionally have satin, velvet, and lots of modern blouse and dress fabric. The by-the-pound table is mill ends or flawed materials. Pendleton Woolen Mills also has an outlet in Portland, Oregon as well as a factory outlet in Pendleton, Oregon itself. Leather Unlimited 7155 Cty Highway B Box L WBMC Belgium, WI 53004 (414) 994-9464 Mail order only Fishman's Fabric Outlet 620 W. Roosevelt Road Chicago, IL 60607 (312)922-4170 Silks at about $5/yard Textile Discount Outlet 2126 W. 21st Street Chicago, IL 60608 (312) 847-0572 No recent info, but used to have cottons at good prices Aero Drapery Outlet 122 Messner Drive Wheeling, IL 60090 Minnesota Fabrics outlet Roaring River Mills, in Altoona, PA has a big sale in January and July. The Jan sale runs all month; the July sale may start on the 4th. Everything in the store is half off; go early in the month. Good prices on various wools, linen, silk, various brocades, cotton, velvet, trim, notions, etc. The store is close to Rt. 22. Horowitz Brothers: New Haven CT, two blocks from the Coliseum. A Moderate to good remnants section that often has resonably priced tapestry fabrics. Good selection of wools (sales in the spring), excellent trim section, moderate but reasonably priced velvets and a good supply of cottons and linens of various weights. New Haven Leather: Half a block closer to the Coliseum than Horowitz Brothers. Three or four stories of leather piles in a ramshackle old building that you will miss if you are not looking for it. A recessed door and two windows and a faded sign mark the front. THIS is the shoe source! prepunched soles, heels, threads, dyes and just about everything else you would need for shoes is hidden in here. Leathers are reasonably priced and there is a fantastic selection if they will let you upstairs. Armor grade leather was available last I looked. They keep bankers hours. Affordable Fabrics: CT, Rt 99 just south of the intersection with Rt 91, in or near Enfield. $1.99 a yard for everything in the place. Open 7 days a week, Cottons in broadcloth and heavier weights, selection varies with the season. Wools and blends especially in the spring. Including pure linen, pure wool, and pure silk! Millie Mills: CT, Rt 99 Just south of the intersection with Rt 91. Diagonally across the street from affordable fabrics. Prices are slightly Higher price but the selection is a little better for odd fabrics. Zimmans: Lynn MA: An excellent supply of tapestry fabrics, at near wholesale prices. They have consistently been 20 to 30% lower than the other local stores. Downstairs there is a 4'x12'x1.5' cabinet full of buckles and other items for use on belts. Solid copper and brass, with only a few items that have been plated. These are the leftovers from the 70s and are tarnished, but polish up very well. Perfect for costume or regular usage. Price varies by the clerk 2 for $.25 to 1 for $.50 with the occasional discount for bulk purchases. Fabrics and Findings, Rochester, NY: two locations, the downtown location is rumored to have a larger selection. Huge warehouse of many mill end and/or flawed materials at discount prices. Very large collection of upholstry fabrics upstairs at heavily discounted prices. I'm sorry that I am not able to provide accurate acknowledgements and email addresses for some of these recommendations. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is alternate source to Tandy Leather for leather working supplies. I think their quality is better, and I have been quite impresssed with how quickly they proccess orders. They have a western bias (lots of saddles and cowboy type information). The Leather Factory Fort Worth Texas Several Nationwide Toll free numbers, By state: Arizona (800)432-7732 Califoriana (800) 999-7371 Colorado (800) 525-8134 Iowa (800) 247-5566 Missouri (800) 888-1993 New Mexico (800) 327-6606 Pennsylvania (800) 233-7155 Tennessee (800) 251-7782 Texas (800) 433-3201 Utah (800) 448-9250 Washington (800) 822-8437 ----------------------------------------------------------------- 7) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ? When looking for an FAQ list, first do the obvious and check the relevant newsgroup for articles with "FAQ" in the subject line. If you don't know how to check articles marked as read, your sysadmin can tell you. Next, try the group news.answers since this FAQ is crossposted there. Again, your sysadmin can tell you the commands to use in searching. If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings. For general instructions on the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no quotes, separate lines) to mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server. via anonymous FTP: Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "pit-manager.mit.edu" (18.72.1.58), in the directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs are: /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts-historical-costuming /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles-books/part1 /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles-books/part2 via email server: The address of the server is mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu. To retrieve files, send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these lines in the body: send usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles send usenet/news.answers/crafts-historical-costuming send usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles-books/part1 send usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles-books/part2 -------------------------------------------------------------------- -Anne Louise Gockel Cornell Computer Science Internet: alg@cs.cornell.edu UUCP: cornell!alg